May 25, 2022


The View On Cooking

A remembrance in excess of a rumal vadi recipe and dessert

4 min read

On 2 September, my father would have been 89. He passed on in January, leaving, as you could visualize, a major void in the family. A previous law enforcement officer who believed in obligation, honour, nation, spouse and children and ambition—not in that order—he was also a large advocate of very good foodstuff and hospitality.

When I was a boy, residence attendees and dinner friends had been frequent, foodstuff was in no way in shorter offer, and my mother was generally well prepared to oversupply the dining desk.

I typically walked in with mates for lunch, and my mother in no way appeared fazed. In college or university, mates would commit holiday getaway mornings on our driveway enjoying tennis-ball cricket. To prevent wild swipes that would hurt my father’s prized roses and crotons, the rule was that if a shot off your bat detached more than 3 leaves, you had been out: As a result, numerous of us held leaves in our pocket to hasten dismissals, and the match was filled with loud accusations of cheating.

This unruly mob took lunch for granted for the reason that they understood our kitchen was well prepared for excessive. On just one breezy day, an total tandoori rooster that experienced been organized disappeared into seemingly bottomless teenage stomachs. When my father returned for lunch, the rooster was history, and he settled, as I recall, for greens.

In contrast to my mother and brother—who famously scrawled on his wall a estimate he wrongly attributed to Winston Churchill, “Vegetarianism is the past refuge of scoundrels”—my father was much far more accommodating of veggies. In fact, he desired a vegetable or two with his food. At night, he insisted on a eco-friendly vegetable, either palak (spinach) or methi (fenugreek), a behavior I adopted in my 40s the distinction is that I consume them for, um, good digestion and health, while he relished them. He was odd in that way.

None of this detracted from the truth that he preferred his meat and fish, specifically the latter, given that he was, immediately after all, a Konkani boy from north Goa. For years, at his favorite restaurant, Sunny’s in Bengaluru, he would only buy almond-encrusted fish, breaking the monotony, sometimes, with lamb ribs.

On his 89th, as his absence hung weighty more than the house, we made a decision to notice his birthday as he would have favored it: We known as his closest buddies for lunch. My mother garlanded his photograph and placed before it a box of dessert, his favorite component of the meal. There had been no speeches and no tears, only laughter and recollections. He would, unquestionably, have approved.



My father’s favorite foodstuff in a bowl. (Samar Halarnkar)&#13


I imagined it only apt to devote this column to my father, specially as a tribute to his enjoy for veggies. The timing is right due to the fact a lot more than a number of readers a short while ago mocked my promises that I experienced these days done far better by vegetarians. “You cook only meat, never you?” one girl informed me, dismissing my protestations, and disregarding the truth that my spouse was vegetarian and ate the food items that I turned out.

I imagined it best to delve into my mother’s common household recipes, several of them published and sent to her in a series of communications from her mom sometime in the early 1960s. I have composed beforehand about these letters from my grandmother and her rumal vadi, a steamed cabbage cutlet of kinds. This vadi has long gone by several iterations over the several years. The latest a person below is some thing my mother’s housekeeper of a lot of years, Laxmi, evolved from the initial rumal vadi, applying spinach, my father’s nightly favourite. He would have authorised. So did I.

Laxmi’s besan and palak vadi

Serves 4-5


1kg cabbage, grated

1 huge bunch of spinach, cleaned, chopped and drained of h2o

1 bowl besan (chickpea flour)

1 green chilli, chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tsp purple chilli powder

50 % tsp turmeric powder

1 tsp cumin powder

1 tsp coriander powder

1 tsp garam masala

Quarter tsp cooking soda

Salt to taste

For the tempering (optional)

A pinch of asafoetida

50 percent tsp mustard seeds


Blend all the dry components and incorporate besan. Combine nicely. Do not incorporate water as spinach and onion have their have. Increase only a handful of drops if required. Knead nicely to form a dough.

Boil water in a kadhai (wok). Oil a cooker vessel and make balls of the dough. Flatten every and spot in the vessel. Position the vessel in the kadhai with boiling drinking water. Protect the kadhai and steam the dough balls. Examine right after 10-15 minutes. If well cooked, a fork poked in should really occur out clear. When very well cooked, take out and slash into squares or slices. Shallow-fry or location in air fryer. Temper with asafoetida and mustard seeds if you like.

Our Every day Bread is a column on effortless, ingenious cooking. Samar Halarnkar is the writer of The Married Man’s Guide To Resourceful Cooking—And Other Dubious Adventures. @samar11

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